Friday March 7th, Misha Hart by Vicki King
top - Co-te, coat - Beyond Retro
dress - Kristina Egle, scarf - Emma J Shipley
LEFT: top - Martina Spetlova, skirt - American Apparel, socks - This Is Uniform
RIGHT: top and skirt - Martina Spetlova
LEFT: dress - Sophie Tohl, top - This Is Uniform
RIGHT: turtle neck - Avelon, top - Kirsty Ward, jacket - Mehle, skirt - This Is Uniform, hat - Borsalino
dress - Hexa by Kuho, shorts - This Is Uniform, scarf - Beyond Retro, socks - Falke
LEFT: turtle neck - Avelon, shorts - Hexa by Kuho, socks - This Is Uniform, trainers - stylists own
RIGHT: top - Hexa by Kuho, tennis dress - Mehle, polo shirt - Le Coq Sportif
Photography: Vicki King
Stylist: Francesca Pinna
Set Design: Libbi King
Make up: Michelle Dacillo using NARS cosmetics
Hair: Satomi Suzuki
Model: Misha Hart @ Viva London
Assistance: Rowan Southern & Dionne Walker
Friday March 7th, AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 BEAUTY ROUND UP
As the autumn/winter 2014 shows come to an end, we’ve seen the likes of Cara and Sam Rollinson clock approximately 276 miles on the catwalk, seen enough fashion vines to last, erm, until September and have mentally curated our autumn wardrobe. But attention turned to beauty, so lets talk the stand out beauty trends to come out of the catwalk…
Long gone are the days of sleek hair, Brazilian blow-dry who? Embrace your inner wild child and lets your locks run free, but remember, you gotta keep it chic though. Look to J.W. Anderson for inspiration where flyways were both graceful and tough. Remember that hair tuck that everybody had a go at? Well, it’s back, sort of. At Iceberg hair was tucked insouciantly behind ears, think cool-skater-girl chic. Marni’s girl took to the catwalk with locks of hair a few drops beyond dewy - almost drenched - but the most perfect incarnation of the post-showery look. Extremists rejoice.
LEFT: JW Anderson AW14, RIGHT: Iceberg AW14
The classic saviour of the beauty world, the red lip proved it’s timelessness. Always a stand out show in the beauty stakes, Prada and Pat McGrath certainly didn’t disappoint. Some girls came out with light and powdery versions whilst others came out with full on deep red hues. Try a matte cherry lip stain a la AF Vandervorst or look to MaxMara for inspiration where lips were drenched with full-bodied raspberry tones.
LEFT: Prada, RIGHT: AF Vandervorst
Love your liner
It seems the beauty worlds fascination with eyeliner is going to hold on just that little bit longer, we’ve seen every incarnation imaginable; the ubiquitous feline flick gets a welcome update with precise blue sweeps across lids at Kenzo, the rounded off flick at Maxime Simoens, worn-in smudged lines at Topshop and the new way to wear your liner at Anthony Vaccarello with a graphic thin strips above and below the eye set off with extended red flick - attitude optional.
LEFT: Anthony Vaccarello RIGHT: Kenzo
Eschewing full-on ‘looks’, virginal beauty was all over the catwalks. From just-bitten lips with hints of pink a la Vanessa Bruno, nude but glossy skin at Isabel Marant and hyper-polished accents at Balmain, virginal beauty was beautifully displayed.
Vanessa Bruno AW14
by Sunil Makan
Follow Sunil on Twitter: @sunileo86
Thursday March 6th, Highlights of Paris Fashion Week, part 2
Miu Miu AW14
Louis Vuitton AW14
Haider Ackermann AW14
Wednesday March 5th, Richard Hamilton at Tate Modern
Richard Hamilton for the cover of Living Arts Magazine
Richard Hamilton exhibition at Tate Modern, 13 February - 26 May
Friday February 28th, Highlights of Paris Fashion Week
Maison Martin Margiela AW14
Wednesday February 26th, Toni Halonen for Kenzo
Toni Halonen for Kenzo
Tuesday February 25th, Tessa Edwards AW14
Gold and crystals were a central theme of Tessa's AW14 collection "As Seen On Screen".
Pre show pictures - Olivia Rose
Catwalk photos - Jay Kirton
Images courtesy of PR
Love crystals? Check out Grit's Kyanite issue #12. (Kyanite is a crystal used in crystal healing).
Tuesday February 25th, LA love - Kerry James Marshall
Our LA Love Series continues with the Artist Kerry James Marshall. Kerry James Marshall was born in Birmingham, Alabama and grew up in South Central Los Angeles and now lives in Chicago.
LEFT: Blue Water Silver Moon (Mermaid), 1991
RIGHT: Untitled (Painter), 2010
Nude (Spotlight), 2009
Tuesday February 25th, Highlights of Milan Fashion Week Part 2
Marni AW14, LEFT: prints by German artist Magnus Plessen
Missoni AW14; sportswear inspired collection and 70's colour palette.
Monday February 24th, Raf Simons x Fred Perry SS14 collection
Photo courtesy of PR
Friday February 21st, MFW highlights
Tuesday February 18th, LFW highlights continued
Grit cover girls Helena Severin @Viva and Georgia Taylor @IMG at Christopher Kane show
Christopher Kane AW14
Thomas Tait AW14
Simone Rocha AW14
Sunday February 16th, LFW highlights from Friday and Saturday
Drew Henry, Central Saint Martins
Lucas Nascimento AW14
Phoebe English AW14
Friday February 14th, NYFW part 2
Marc Jacobs AW14
Calvin Klein AW14, like The Row and Altuzarra (see Tuesday blogpost), Calvin Klein's AW14 collection was crafty and featured some beautiful knitted pieces.
Thursday February 13th, Q+A with Stephanie Hahn from 22/4
We caught up with the designer Stephanie Hahn behind the label 22/4 before the upcoming Paris Fashion Week. The name of this Dusseldorf based label derives from the mathematical equation 2+2=4 which is an indication of 22/4’s high quality standards.
You design for both men and women, but your label isn’t unisex. In one of your interviews you have mentioned you work on the masculine and feminine common identity. What do you think is the common identity?
First of all thank you for not calling my brand “unisex”! For me and my team it’s the worst and most untrue term related to our work and to the identity and philosophy of 22/4. We don’t work with a unisex pattern system. Our menswear is based on the traditional menswear pattern systems and the same for the women’s - it’s based on the traditional women’s wear pattern systems.
We liberalize the idea of genders in fashion by creating a common identity - a connection of the men’s and the women’s collection. The common identity of 22/4 arises out of the fact that I don’t separate the men’s and women’s collection during the development process. I see and feel them as one collection. For me it’s all part of the same story and based on the same inspiration, the same mood and idea of shapes and silhouettes. I even like to use the same materials for certain men’s and women’s pieces – especially when it comes to the signature pieces I have to admit.
22/4 SS14 men
22/4 SS14 women
You are based in Dusseldorf. How is the fashion industry in Dusseldorf?
To be honest I don’t really know the industry in Düsseldorf. I was always interested in Paris and focused on its industry. I think I probably know better the music scene here and parts of the art scene than the fashion industry in Düsseldorf.
Despite of being based in Germany, you have chosen to show in Paris from all the other fashion weeks. As a relatively new designer how do you try to set yourself apart from the more established labels in Paris?
I try my very best not to be too commercial and allow myself and the brand to grow with every new project and season. I strongly believe in the process of development.
Here in Britain, there’s been discussion about fashion design education and how difficult it is to find great pattern cutters these days since everyone wants to make their own label/become a star designer. What are your thoughts on this as a German designer?
Well, it’s generally no disadvantage to know the techniques of your profession. I benefit a lot from the fact that I know how to do a cut already while sketching my ideas. And I personally really appreciate discussing technical details with my team during the development process of a piece. We work on ideas and new techniques together and see how we can always stretch the technical boundaries a bit more. I just think that we all should take care that we keep in mind that fashion is beside of anything else based on a technical structure and system. It’s not that bad to know the system before you start to break it into pieces.
For the AW14 collection you used faux fur for the first time. Any other materials you’re keen on experimenting with?
Let’s see. Choosing the fabrics is a very intuitive and emotional process so I never really know what might attract me next. But I generally like to experiment with fabrics and to put them into another often unexpected context.
LEFT: 22/4 AW14 men, RIGHT: 22/4 AW14 women
Recently we’ve been asking the designers we interview which one would they be happier to share with people - sketchbook or diary. Why?
Except with my team and the people I choose to work with, I don’t feel a need to share my sketchbook with anyone. And I don’t keep a diary - for me my collections are my diaries and them I do share with everyone interested in 22/4.
What can we expect from 22/4 in the future? Any special projects coming up?
More of 22/4, for me every collection is already another special project as it’s never just about garments.
22/4 SS14 campaign photographed by Stefan Milev
Tuesday February 11th, Cléa Vincent - Retiens mon désir
This track by Cléa Vincent is an instant moodlifter.
Tuesday February 11th, Artisanal bliss in NYFW
We wanted to pay homage to all the amazing artisanal expertise we've seen in NYFW over the past few days. Crafty and modern luxury hand in hand.
LEFT: woven tapestry at Altuzarra AW14
RIGHT: hand knit cashmere skirts The Row AW14
Sunday February 9th, Kenzo SS14 campaign film by TOILETPAPER
Photography Pierpaolo Ferrari
Animation Thomas Traum
Friday February 7th, 3.1 Phillip Lim SS14 campaign film
Thursday February 6th, Spring 14 Utility Clothing
Like the title of our "Spring 14" issue "Metier" suggest; sporty reinterpreted utility clothing is hot this spring. We selected some of the best dungaree/overall looks from SS14 catwalks.
LEFT: Vanessa Bruno SS14, RIGHT: Rag&Bone SS14
LEFT: Givenchy SS14, RIGHT: Topshop Unique SS14
Tuesday February 4th, Q+A with Lina Michal
Congratulations on winning the Muuse x Vogue Talents award. Your collection “Heathen Hearts” takes an inspiration from Swedish ethnic fashion ... What things in particular inspired you in the way people used to dress in the old days in Sweden?
It’s not so much inspired by historic costume as it is inspired by our previous way of life, the culture of having a close spiritual relationship to nature. Less than 100 years ago it was still common knowledge in Sweden that magic beings guarded the trees, waters, meadows - that nature had soul. We have such a long history of animism and that inspired me to give the collection a organic, spontaneous feel to it.
You are currently interning at Opening Ceremony what is your normal day like?
No day is like the other, there is so much going on. On top of my internship I’m also working on a collection under my own name together with Muuse, so the days sure are long. I’m going to Denmark for fittings in the end of the month and it’ll be out in time for the SS15 season, it’s very exciting.
Here at Grit we love Swedish designers/labels such as Acne, Ann-Sofie Back and Sandra Backlund and yet we think there should be more Swedish designers who are recognised worldwide. What do you think is the biggest obstacles for Swedish designers to make it big?
Well, like with everything else it’s a matter of money. Sweden is a very small market and there’s not enough room for a lot of companies to take part in it. It becomes essential to get international stores to stock your designs, maybe we’re not very good at selling ourselves?
If you were not a designer what would you be doing?
I’d probably be a gardener.
Which one would you be less likely to share with other people your diary or sketchbook? Why?
My diary for sure, haha! I think it’s important to be able to share your sketchbook, to have the guts to show people your work before it is finished and perfected. There is so much you can learn from letting go of things, sharing even the stuff that is still just a thought in your head or a sketch on paper. It helps you develop and see new angles to your work that you never would have noticed out on your own.
Since you’re currently in NY - Mermaid parade or Chinese Lunar New Year parade? Why?
I was actually out of town for both of these events. Get back to me next year and I’ll have an answer for you! But celebration, regardless of reason, is always nice.
Friday January 31st, Hunter Boots SS14 campaign
Hunter Boots SS14 campaign shot by Viviane Sassen
Thursday January 30th, Interview with the design duo Marques Almeida in 2011
Tuesday 26th July 2011 Q+A with Marques Almeida
The Portuguese duo Marques Almeida's graduate collection was one of our favourites graduate collections this year. Despite of being recent graduates, the future is looking bright for them - they are showing their SS12 collection in Fashion East in September.
As seen in our Wild Palms Pre AW11 issue, Marques Almeida's reworked denim pieces from their graduate collection are worn by the amazing Melodie Monrose (Premier) and styled by Larissa de Filippo. We interviewed Marta, the other half behind the label to find out a bit more how they work as a duo and what inspires them in denim.
Who is Marques Almeida girl?
The cool girl around the corner that feels identified with this
attitude we talk about through our clothes.
How do you work as a duo? How do you differ from each other?
We work very closely together and we differ a lot from each other and
that's the good part. We gradually found out, after all these years
working side by side, our individual strengths and skills. We work on
the creative part completely together in a very instinctive way but
then there are specifics stages where one of us is more active and
Your graduate collection was a denim collection. Why did you choose
to work on denim?
The denim came from our research, centered around the early to mid
nineties street syle references that we then reworked. Denim was the
iconic reference that we were faced with over and over and we wanted
to focus on it as part of this "youth code". Also, it's interesting and
exciting to be working with a material with so much possibilities in
itself and uncommon in the high end market.
You've been chosen as one of the designers to show in the Fashion
East in September which is an amazing stepping stone for any new designer.
What are your thoughts on this?
We are beyond excited,really.We are very aware of the opportunity and
we're so glad we get a chance to keep doing what we do with the
amazing support of the Fashion East team!
How does the Portuguese fashion differ from English? Would you say
there's any Portuguese references in your work?
It is very different and we're glad we got both training in Portugal
and the UK because it made us develop totally different skills.It's
hard to analyse its differences because the context is too different.
We wouldn't say there are any Portuguese aesthethic references in our
work. Although we believe that what we do is obviously strongly
connected to what we are and that comes so much from growing and
studying in a country as Portugal and it's big connection to the
textile industry, as it comes from the amazing skills and creative
development we were able to achieve by moving to London and having the
training we had here.
What are you listening in the studio right now?
A 90's playlist.
Thursday January 30th, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Pre Fall 14
Wednesday January 29th, Lanvin SS14 campaign film
Director: Gordon von Steiner, Photographer: Steven Meisel
Tuesday January 28th, Oscar Murillo at The Mistake Room
The Colombian born and London based artist Oscar Murillo's exhibition "Distribution Center" opened at The Mistake Room, a new non profit art space, on January 18th. Murillo's exhibition is first on the line - the co-founder of the space, Cesar Garcia plans on bringing more up and coming international artists to exhibit in this gallery place in Downtown industrial district. For his first solo exhibition in US called "Distribution Centre", Oscar Murillo created objects and installation together with a team of local day laborers and Tjiuana-based construction and carpentry workers.
Oscar Murillo's exhibition "Distribution Center" at The Mistake Room until April 12th.
Friday January 24th, A.P.C. SS14 campaign
A.P.C. SS14 campaign by Walter Pfeiffer
Thursday January 23rd, Proenza Schouler SS14 campaign film
Directed by David Sims
Wednesday January 22nd, Another LA Love - Artist Henry Taylor
Henry Taylor, See Alice Jump, 2011
Henry Taylor, Walking with Vito, 2008
Henry Taylor, She Mixed, 2008
Tuesday January 21st, Men's AW14
Bottega Veneta AW14
Calvin Klein AW14
Dries Van Noten AW14
Louis Vuitton AW14
Shaun Samson AW14
Sunday January 19th, Michael Lentz, Study of Human Flesh
Michael Lentz, Study of Human Flesh, 2010
Friday January 17th, THE MAN OF THE MOMENT - STERLING RUBY
The much anticipated Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby collaboration was revealed on Wednesday evening. However, this wasn't the first time when they have collaborated - in 2008 Ruby designed the interior for Simons' Tokyo store. The LA based artist Ruby works in a variety of media such as ceramics, painting and collage and lists sources such as aberrant psychologies (schizophrenia and paranoia), urban gangs and graffiti, hip-hop culture, craft, punk, masculinity, violence, public art, prisons, globalization, American domination and decline, waste and consumption to be his main influences.
Sterling Ruby, SP108,2010
Sterling Ruby, SP178, 2011
LEFT: Sterling Ruby, SUPERMAX, 2008, installation view, Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles
RIGHT:Sterling Ruby, Basin Theology/Talwin+Ritalin, 2013
Raf Simons AW14
Tuesday January 14th, PRE-FALL IN LOVE
Everyone knows that fashion people don’t really like spring/summer. We like black, dark glasses and looking indifferent, which in turn means that we simply adore the darker seasons. That may explain why the recent pre-fall collections have been coming thick and fast since the end of last year. Pre-fall unlike its cousin resort, isn’t about moneyed individuals holidaying in the Maldives, it is indeed the fashion lover’s season. Pre-fall season or as some would refer to it - early autumn, is when summer becomes a mere memory and wrapping up isn’t yet a concern – it’s about style, cropped shapes, surprising colour, leather. Pre-fall is chic and this season it also felt new.
The focus of many designers appeared to be wearability, no one likes the word practical – it’s dull, but wearable is perfect. Proenza Schouler demonstrated wearable yet fashionable clothing faultlessly: wide-legged cropped trousers teamed with shearling lined bomber jackets certainly are not for everyone, but a certain type of woman could certainly make it work, whilst browsing South Molton Street. Alber Elbaz at Lanvin reinvented his signature party dresses by pairing them with flat masculine ankle boots, making them all of a sudden utterly modern and even more appealing.
Proenza Schouler Pre Fall 14
Lanvin Pre Fall 14
Clean lines and graphic prints led the way in the shape of pattern. Stripes - vertical and horizontal had no overtones of contrived nautical connotations, but simply screamed fresh sophistication – Chloe, Altuzarra and Fendi were especially bold and stylish. Without a doubt Joseph Altuzarra’s entire collection was one women would dream of wearing for the whole pre-fall season.
LEFT: Chloe Pre Fall 14
RIGHT: Altuzarra Pre Fall 14
LEFT: Fendi Pre Fall 14
RIGHT: Erdem Pre Fall 14
Subtle sexuality was also touched upon with a handful of collections experimenting with something a little more risqué. Burberry had thigh high slits and lace in the eveningwear section, whilst Erdem and Donna Karan had elements of startlingly sheer fabric. So while most of the world countdown to the summer months and dream about endless days in the park, the fashion obsessed simply pass over summer with little excitement and embrace the thought of chilly autumnal air so that bare legs, directional ankle boots and graphic stripes can take centre stage. Pre-fall we love you!
by Adjoa Gharban
Follow Adjoa on Twitter: @Adjyg
Monday January 13th, Grit cover girl Helena Severin in Prada
LEFT: Grit Summer 13 Issue cover girl walks for Prada yesterday
RIGHT: Helena by Nicole Maria Winkler, check out rest of the story in our issues section - Negative Space, Summer 13
Friday January 10th, Issey Miyake campaign film by Lisa Paclet
Alma Durand and Lis Inger in Issey Miyake S/S14 campaign film by Lisa Paclet
Friday January 10th, Chloe S/S14 campaign film by Ineez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
Julia Stegner and Lou Doillon appear in the Chloe S/S14 campaign films - "Why Don't We?" and "What Are You Waiting For?"
Friday January 10th, Alexander Wang S/S14 campaign
Anna Ewers by Steven Klein in Alexander Wang S/S14 campaign
Wednesday January 8th, Celine S/S14 campaign
Julia Nobis, photographed by Juergen Teller
Tuesday January 7th, How the show should be done - Topman AW14
We love the gorgeous knitwear the Grit boys Jeroen Smits@Elite and Laurie@Supa are wearing.
LEFT: Grit boy Jack Chambers@Elite also in Topman AW14 show
photos courtesy of Topman
Tuesday January 7th, Missoni SS14 Campaign film by Viviane Sassen
Friday December 20th, Acne Studios LA Store
Acne Studios opens their LA store in one of our favourite buildings; Eastern Columbia Building in Downtown LA
Tuesday December 17th, Marc by Marc Jacobs SS14
Marc by Marc Jacobs SS14
Photography - Juergen Teller
Model - Maria Palm @Trump
Sunday December 15th, Ana Mendieta
LEFT: Body Tracks (1974), RIGHT: Anima, Silueta de Cohetes (1976)
Ana Mendieta "Traces" exhibition at the Hayward Gallery Southbank Centre
Friday December 13th, Tristan Pigott's paintings
Tristan Pigott "Easy Reading"
Tristan Pigott "Urban Neurosis"
Tristan Pigott "Dirty Table"
Friday December 13th, Givenchy SS14 campaign
Tuesday December 10th, Kenzo SS14 campaign
Friday December 6th, Reba by Eloise Parry
Photography - Eloise Parry
Styling - Elisa Voto
Model - Reba
Tuesday December 3rd, Sophia Webster wins the Emerging Accessory Designer Award
Sophia Webster wins the Emerging Accessory Designer Award at British Fashion Awards last night.
Friday November 29th, Jaakko Eino Kalevi "No End"
Jaakko Eino Kalevi "No End", directed by Harley Weir
Tuesday November 26th, Hermes petit h by Studio Toogood
If you're popping into for some shopping at Hermes flagship store (on Bond Street) expect to see the ground floor of the store like you've never seen it before. The brilliant Studio Toogood has teamed up with the Hermes to launch petit h - a creative and poetic new take on the iconic Hermes brand and the interior of the store acts as an antidote to West End slickness.
Image courtesy Studio Toogood
Tuesday November 26th, Agnona AW13
Agnona AW13 campaign, photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
Saturday November 23rd, Helena Severin
Grit's Summer 13 issue cover girl Helena Severin @Wiener walked exclusively for Saint Laurent SS14 show.
LEFT: Helena Severin for Saint Laurent SS14 show
RIGHT: Helena Severin photographed by Nicole Maria Winkler and styled by Felix Leblhuber for the Summer 13 issue "Negative Space", Helena wears a top by Bradaric Ohmae
Friday November 22nd, Blue Is The Warmest Colour
Director: Abdellatif Kechiche, starring: Léa Seydoux, Adèle Exarchopoulos
Wednesday November 20th, Long Live The Queen, Winter 13
Georgia Taylor @IMG
Photography: Niclas Heikkinen
Styling: Grace Joel
Hair: Sarah Jo Palmer
Make up: Mai Kodama using MAC
Friday November 15th, Facing the Modern : The Portrait in Vienna 1900
LEFT: Egon Schiele, The Family (Self Portrait), 1918
RIGHT: Gustav Klimt, Portrait of Hermine Gallia, 1904
Facing the Modern : The Portrait in Vienna 1900 at the National Gallery until 12 January 2014
Tuesday November 12th, Dior SS14 lookbook
Photographed by Karim Sadli
Friday November 8th, Sarah Lucas exhibition at Whitechapel Art Gallery
Sarah Lucas Exhibition at Whitechapel Gallery until 15 December 2013.
LEFT: Pauline Bunny, 1997
RIGHT: Self Portrait with Fried Eggs, 1996
Tuesday November 5th, Paul Klee exhibition at Tate Modern
Paul Klee exhibition at Tate Modern until 9 March 2014.
Left: Flower Myth 1918, Right: Senecio 1922
Friday November 1st, Aspesi AW13 campaign
Ondia Hardin and Stella Tennant in Aspesi AW13 campaign photographed by Paolo Roversi
Tuesday October 29th, Archie and Dixon
LEFT: utility belt (worn as backpack) and hat- Beyond Retro
RIGHT: top, glove and tracksuit top - Cottweiler
LEFT: shorts - Cottweiler
RIGHT: top and shorts - Cottweiler , trousers - AVA Catherside
LEFT: trousers, vest and bomber jackets - Millie Cockton
RIGHT: top - Beyond Retro
LEFT: hat - Cottweiler
RIGHT: tracksuit - Cottweiler, tunic - AVA Catherside, socks - Slazenger, trainers - Nike, skull cap - Nike
LEFT: tracksuit bottom and gloves - Cottweiler
RIGHT: tracksuit bottom and gloves - Cottweiler
LEFT: hat - Beyond Retro, gloves, jumper, sweat pants - Cottweiler, socks - Slazenger, trainers-Nike
RIGHT: Dixon wears a tracksuit top, bottoms and gloves - Cottweiler, socks - Slazenger, sandals - Everlast, Archie wears a skull cap - Nike, coat & trousers - AVA Catherside, t-shirt - Drewski by Heeny, socks - Slazenger, sandals - Everlast
LEFT: short kilt and trousers - Millie Cockton, utility belt (worn as backpack) and hat-Beyond Retro
RIGHT: t-shirt- Drewski by Heeny, skull cap - Nike
Styling: Isabella Kavanagh
Make-up artist: Maria Papadopoulou using mac pro
Hair artist: Atsushi Takita using Bumble and Bumble
Models: Archie/Select, Dixon/Models1
Friday October 25th, Prada Oasis
Prada Marfa installation is in danger of being removed, however, at the same time Prada Oasis and Damien Hirst's Pharmacy Juice Bar popped up in Qatar earlier this month.
Tuesday October 22th, Prada Marfa - art or advertising?
The installation "Prada Marfa" in Texas (not open for business at all) is being in danger of being removed. The Texas Department of Transportation is claiming it to be outdoor advertising for the luxury brand.
Friday October 18th, Frieze Art Fair
Frieze Art Fair 17th-20th October, Regent's Park
Tuesday October 15th, Anders Hayward and Laurie Harding
RIGHT: jumpsuit - Adidas, shirt - Kit Neale, jumper worn as a belt - Patagonia, shorts - Cottweiler, socks - American Apparel, sandals - Cottweiler, mask - Joe Cummnis
LEFT: jacket - Adidas, necklace - Alexander Bishon Rowland
RIGHT: shorts - Cottweiler, socks - American Apparel, sandals - Cottweiler
LEFT: vest - Joe Cummnis, jumper - Patagonia, trousers - Adidas, socks - American Apparel, sandals - Cottweiler
RIGHT: sweater - Joe Cummnis, vest - Ava Catherside
LEFT: tshirt - American Apparel
RIGHT: jacket - James Long, trousers - Christian Lacroix, socks - American Apparel, sandals - Cottweiler
LEFT: jumpsuit - Adidas, shirt - Kit Neale, mask - Joe Cummnis
RIGHT: shorts - Patagonia, trousers - Adidas
LEFT: jacket - Adidas, jumper - Ava Catherside
RIGHT: mask - Joe Cummnis, trousers - Ava Catherside
jumper - Cottweiler, trousers - Christian Lacroix, socks - American Apparel, sandals - Cottweiler
Photography - Harry Carr
Styling - Elisa Voto
Grooming by Oskar Pera @ Caren
Photographic assistance: Patrick Hill
Stylist assistance: Alberto Albanese
Models: Laurie Harding & Anders Hayward @ Supa
Friday October 11th, Marc Desgrandchamps exhibition in Paris
Marc Desgrandchamps "Sans Titre", 2010
Marc Desgrandchamps "Sans Titre", 2013
Marc Desgrandchamps exhibition at Galerie Zurcher, Paris until October 19th.
Tuesday October 8th, London Design Festival
Josh Bitelli, part of the Made by Works collective, exhibited his welded works during the London Design Festival (17-22 September).
Friday October 4th, Pierre Balmain SS14 lookbook by Andreas Laszlo Konrath
Pierre Balmain SS14 lookbook by Andreas Laszlo Konrath, styling Clare Richardson.
Read Grit's exclusive interview of Andreas Laszlo Konrath
Friday 24th September 2010 Q+A Andreas Laszlo Konrath
From taking pictures of punk kids and skateboarders to documenting fashion weeks in backstage the London born (now Brooklyn based) the photographer Andreas Laszlo Konrath has proven he can successfully do both. Andreas chats to us about punk scenes and never growing up. We also wanted to ask him about what he thinks about the controversy in Larry Clark's and Tierney Gearon's work.
Agyness Deyn by Andreas Laszlo Konrath
You have been doing some backstage fashion show photography in Milan, Paris and NY and have captured Aggy, Freja, Abbey Lee, Anna Piaggi,Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander Wang etc but what first caught our attention in Grit were your raw images of youth culture. What is it that inspires you in the youth culture?
I come from a background of skateboarding and playing in bands since I was a young teenager, so I am attracted to capturing and inspired by cultures that I feel a connection to. Perhaps it's a nostalgic feeling, as I am now in my late 20's, so obviously there is a slight age difference between
myself and some of the subjects I like to photograph. I like the idea of documenting parts of myself in the new generation, in a way it's quite narcissistic, but I think it's necessary to capture part of yourself in your subjects. When I am out shooting with a bunch of skateboarders or some punks at a show, I approach it in a way as if I was taking photos of myself at their age. Of course, I am also interested in new trends, styles, music and ideas, and the energy in youth culture is very inspiring. It's great to be reminded of what it's like to be young and care free again. Responsibility destroys naivety.
You were born in North East London, but you have lived in Brooklyn since 2005, what is the biggest difference between the punk scenes in London and NY?
It really depends on what part of the "punk" scenes your talking about. I mean, the word "punk" is misused these days anyway, and there are so many amalgamations of the music or scene it's hard to find it's true meaning or philosophy in today's "punk" movements. London and New York have always had that relationship where music scenes get bounced back and forth so quickly,
there isn't really a huge difference in the scenes. You'll see kids wearing the same clothes and being into the same bands in both cities just depending on what era or style of "punk" they're into - you'll have the hardcore kids and the crusty punks, kids into the old 1st wave punk, then 2nd wave California style punk, ska punk and even the ones into pop or emo punk - there are so many different mini sub cultures within the culture it all kind of blends into one big mash. I can definitely say that America in general has a more commercialized view of "punk" music now as a whole with things like Vans Warped Tour and the now defunct Hellfest. I find that the most interesting factor is how it is marketed over here, as I'm sure it is now in the UK. I do know that in both cities there's been a much bigger resurgence of underground DIY cultures in general and the classic ideas of "punk" movements are being engaged again because everyone has gotten a bit sick of things been force fed to them. We're all a lot smarter than corporations think we are!
The high end fashion world and youth culture are worlds apart, but you've been successful documenting both. Where does the success lie in?
Really I feel much more at home out skateboarding or at a gig taking photos, so those images come naturally to me. Those photos are things I've done in my own time and consider very personal projects, and hopefully the success lies in being passionate about what I'm doing and taking an honest or truthful photograph of those experiences. The fashion world really isn't
something I was ever interested in but I was given the opportunity and access to do some portraits and document the backstage environment. Of course, it's healthy to step out of your comfort zone so I took the chance to take some great photos of something I had no past experience with. The fact that I didn't really know who I was taking photos of or what their
significance in the fashion world is really helped because then I approached everything without preconceptions and so I just took photos of them as if I was taking photos of anything I normally would. Again, if I can take an honest and direct photograph of someone then I'm happy. I tried to not get effected by the whole fashion world hierarchy and just treated everyone like
I would any friend or skateboarder or kid hanging at a show. Hopefully my images were a fresh perspective because I'd never been there before and didn't really get caught up in who was famous or all that other stuff, and just wanted to take great photos!
Do you actively look for models? How do you choose your models?
I don't really actively search for models, and I don't think the word model is really appropriate for my work. I like to photograph subjects, people with personalities and something more to them than just being a manikin! I definitely know what kind of subjects I am attracted to or inspired by,
whether that's visually or there's something else about them that you really want to capture. I see myself foremost as a portrait photographer so the person in the photo has to have more than looks to make a good photo. I mostly shoot people I know or have met before in some capacity, like a party or at a show, or a friend of a friend etc... I do like street casting sometimes, so if I see someone walking down the street that has some energy, or a look, or a style that captures my attention I'll approach them and explain what kind of work I do. Hopefully I'll meet with them again and try and shoot some photos. But it's not like I'm out on the street searching day
and night for the perfect person, it's nice when it just happens naturally and you just instinctively know that you want to photograph that person!
Both controversial - photographer Tierney Gearon or film maker Larry Clark? Why?
I really love both Larry and Tierney's work, but I don't find them overly controversial really. I suppose when Clark did Tulsa, at the time I'm sure it was pretty raw and unnerving, and of course, in the 90's with Kids, he struck a nerve with the public about what they didn't want to know their children were doing. The only reason he gets thrown into the controversial bucket is because he's a dude in his 50's or 60's, photographing young people, and there's always that pedophiliac connotation that people are going to jump at. I think because Clark was the first photographer that got me wanting to take photos, I'm so used to his work that it doesn't shock me. I was 13 when Kids came out and so that film just seemed like the way it must be in America, but it didn't scare me or offend me. I kind of wished my life was that cool! And of course I loved the fact he had pro skaters in his film which I had posters of in my bedroom. I own nearly all his books so his work was always just part of my inspiration and life, so to me it was just what he chose to do with his artistic career. Maybe in the politically correct world we know, it's not "appropriate" to take photos of a teenager getting a blow job from a prostitute, but to Larry Clark that just seemed normal, he probably got blow jobs off prostitutes all the time when he was young!!!
I think the whole controversial thing got stuck on Tierney because of the Saatchi show I Am A Camera, and we all know his role is to sensationalize art. I went to see that show and loved her photos, they just seemed like amazing family moments, with this slightly tweaked perspective. It didn't outrage me though, seeing photos of naked children, those are her kids, why can't she take photos of them naked!? And then the UK press loved to blow it all out of proportion again throwing the pedophiliac stamp at the show! I'm sure that both her and Saatchi are grateful for all the press they got, as all press is good press, right!?
One of the biggest selling rappers once said he wanted to stop rapping before he would turn 30 since he thought it wouldn't be cool anymore. Do you ever think there's time when a photographer becomes too old to take pictures of young people/youth culture?
I do often think about if there'll be a time when I will stop being interested in skateboarding or the music scenes I am interested in, and therefore will my attention of young people or youth culture turn to something else? Perhaps, I'm not really sure. If it feels right to continue to do it, then I will. If I still feel connected to those cultures, then I will continue. Maybe part of it is not really wanting to grow up, or not feeling any different to when I was 18, so it feels natural to go for a
skate, and hang out with younger people. The great thing about skateboarding
is that it doesn't really matter what age you are, if you have the same thing in common, then it's fine to hang out with people in any age group. When I was 13 and going down to the skatepark, I was hanging out with 20 year olds, or 30 year olds even, they're the people I looked up to! It was
amazing to have friends in all age ranges because it was the skateboard that we all loved and we all got along regardless of age. I hope that I will still love the things I have for the last 15 years, but that doesn't mean that change is bad either... If I'm still skateboarding when I'm 60, that
could be amazing! We will just have to wait and see!
Abbey Lee Kershaw by Andreas Laszlo Konrath
Tuesday October 1st, PFW SS14
Christian Wijnants SS14
Friday September 27th, Rick Owens SS14
Tuesday September 24th, Milan SS14
Jil Sander SS14
Friday September 20th, LFW SS14
Christopher Kane SS14
Richard Nicoll SS14
Meadham Kirchhoff SS14
Friday September 13th, NY SS14
Theyskens' Theory SS14
Proenza Schouler SS14
3.1 Phillip Lim SS14
Alexander Wang SS14
Tuesday September 10th, Muller van Severen cutting board
A cutting board from Fien Muller and Hannes Van Severen furniture collection, more information: www.valerietraan.be
Wednesday September 4th, Los Angeles. Portrait of a City
Los Angeles. Portrait of a City. Hardcover, 25 x 34 cm, 572 pages, £44,99, Taschen.
Wednesday September 4th, Balenciaga AW13
Balenciaga AW13, photographed by Josh Olins, model: Sylvester @FM
Tuesday September 3rd, M2malettier
We're obsessed with the new Spanish handbag label M2malettier, established in 2012. The designers behind the label Melissa Losada and Marcela Velez met each other at Parsons, NY. The designers count the French Interior Designer Jean-Michel Frank and Catalan Architect Ricardo Bofill as their inspiration.
Friday August 30th, Harry Carr in Turkey
Our last post of the holiday snap series is the Photographer Harry Carr's pictures from Turkey. Keep your eyes peeled Harry Carr has shot an amazing story for our blog to be released later on this autumn.
Thursday August 29th, Who Killed Bambi?
Left: Rebeca Marcos (@Models1) wears Marques Almeida. Photography: Yann Faucher, Styling:Lola Chatterton
Right: Eloisa Fontes (@Elite) wears Narae Park. Photography: Niclas Heikkinen, Styling: Grace Joel
Matthew Logos (@Request) wears a vintage tshirt from Screaming MiMis. Photography: Benedict Brink, Styling: Clare Byrne
Tuesday August 27th, Grace Joel holiday snaps from Georgia and Armenia
The London based stylist Grace Joel sent us these shot from her travels to Georgia and Armenia this summer. Grace Joel is a regular Grit contributor, she teamed up with the Photographer Niclas Heikkinen for Grit's Autumn 13 issue which will be out soon.
Friday August 23th, Amanda Camenisch's holiday snaps from Utah and California
Tuesday August 20th, Stussy AW13 campaign
Stussy AW13 campaign shot by Tyrone Lebon
Friday August 16th, Grit Summer: Yann Faucher in France
The London based Photographer Yann Faucher visited La Drome, France.
Tuesday August 12th, Carven AW13 menswear campaign
Photographed by Viviane Sassen
Tuesday August 12th, Grit Summer: Harley Weir in Georgia
The Photographer Harley Weir's holiday snaps from Georgia, by the Black Sea
Friday August 9th, Grit Summer: Miles Langford in LA
Miles Langford (@FM) in LA, Miles is also the current face of Lanvin AW13 campaign. We've been fans of Miles since we got to know him from shooting a denim story for Grit a couple of seasons ago.
Wednesday August 7th, Grit Summer: Niclas Heikkinen in Spain
Tarot Reading Shop
Handmade sweets at Papabubble
Tuesday August 6th, Grit Summer: Madeleine Ostlie in Norway
Grit has asked some of our contributors to send holiday snaps from their holidays this summer. We'll be sharing these snapshots with you during August. First one up is the lovely stylist Madeleine Ostlie.