Tuesday October 28th, Alexander Krack "Morgens Nuchtern, Am Brunnen, Zu Bett
Friday October 24th, Melanie by Sophie Tajan
COAT - Yifang Wan, DRESS - AVA Catherside, SHOES - Purified
TOP - Faustine Steinmetz, SKIRT - Rejina Pyo
TOP - Faustine Steinmetz, SKIRT - Rejina Pyo
TOP - Chalayan, TROUSERS - Faustine Steinmetz
DRESS - Isa Arfen
DRESS - Rejina Pyo, COAT - AVA Catherside
TOP - Rejina Pyo, SKIRT - Yifang Wan
Photography: Sophie Tajan
Styling: Kama Krystel
Make Up: Gillian Campbell www.gilliancampbell.tv
Hair: Liv Holst www.livholst.com
Model: Melanie Culley @Premier
Tuesday October 21st, Yana Wernicke, Irrlicht 2014
Selected works from Yana Wernicke's Irrlicht (2014) series. Yana's work was showcased at the Ostkreuz School of Photography Annual Graduate Exhibition.
Friday October 17th, Frieze Art Fair, 2014
Ken Kagami "Bronze Chupa Chups", 2014
Ken Kagami "Oreos", 2014
Tuesday October 14th, ACNE underwear
ACNE studios have released their first ever collection of underwear. When it comes to the colours the founder Jonny Jonasson thinks underwear should be beige or skin-colored since he prefers no underwear.
Tuesday October 14th, Marcel Duchamp
LEFT: Baptême 1911
RIGHT: Nude Descending a Staircase, 1912
Marcel Duchamp early paintings exhibition at the Centre Pompidou until Jan 5, 2015.
Friday October 10th, Pasolini Roma
LEFT: Pier Paolo Pasolini on the set of "Il Decameron", 1971
RIGHT: Silvana Mangano in "Teorema", 1968
"Pasolini Roma" exhibition at Martin-Gropius-Bau, Berlin until January 5, 2015
Tuesday October 7th, Donal Drawbertson at Colette
LEFT: "Instagram-Artist" Donald Drawbertson was making his collages at Colette on Monday (October 6th)
RIGHT: one of Donald's earlier pieces
Friday October 3rd, Highlights from PFW
Louis Vuitton SS15
Haider Ackermann SS15
Friday September 26th, Highlights from PFW
Dries Van Noten SS15
Tuesday September 23rd, Highlights from MFW
Friday September 19th, Malevich at Tate Modern
LEFT: Black Square 1915
RIGHT: A Woman With A Rake c.1932
Kazimir Malevich's retrospective at Tate Modern until October 26.
Tuesday September 16th, Highlights on LFW
Simone Rocha SS15
Thomas Tait SS15
Christopher Kane SS15
Mary Katranzou SS15
Tuesday September 16th, Francesca Woodman "Zigzag"
Francesca Woodman "Zigzag" exhibition at Victoria Miro gallery
Friday September 11th, Highlights from NYFW
Marc Jacobs SS15
Proenza Schouler SS15
Tuesday September 9th, Highlights from NYFW
The Row SS15
Friday September 5th, Soixante Neuf covers, part 2
Liam Gardner @Select, photographed by Harry Carr @TheBookAgency, styled by Lorenzo Posocco
Tuesday September 2nd, Soixante Neuf covers
Taya Ermoshkina @M&P lands on the Grit Autumn 14 issue cover.
Photography - Phil Dunlop
Styling - Coline Bach
Set - Stephanie Kevers
Hair - Sarah Jo Palmer
Make Up - Kristine Ralph
Casting - Niclas Heikkinen
Taya wears a dress by Moschino Cheap by Chic, stockings - Falke, high waisted suspender pants & neck scarf - Fifi Chachnil, belt - Beyond Retro
Serge Gainsbourg's song "Soixante Neuf Année Érotique" lends its name to the Autumn 14 issue of Grit. The third cover of the issue photographed by Harry Carr will be released soon. Watch this space!
Tuesday August 5th, Bonne vacances!
David Hockney "A Bigger Splash, 1967"
We're on holiday, we'll be back in the end of August! Bonne Vacances!
Friday August 1st, Martial Raysse retrospective
LEFT: Make Up, 1962
RIGHT: America, America, 1964
LEFT: Made in Japan - La Grande Opalisque, 1964
RIGHT: Nissa Bella, 1965
Martial Raysse Retrospective (1960-2014) at the Centre Pompidou until Monday, September 22nd
Tuesday July 29th, Chloe AW14 campaign
photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
Friday July 25th, Lanvin AW14 campaign
photographed by Tim Walker
Friday July 18th, Grit goes East
This summer Grit goes East, a series of go see portraits by Winter Vandenbrink
Lukas @Nevs, 21, Lithuania
"People should visit a few cities in my country (Nida, Palanga, Vilnius) - they are all really nice."
Simonas@Elite, 21, Lithuania
What’s your favourite word in Lithuanian?
"It’s a hard question because there are a lot words. Maybe "svajone" which
Sasha Volosatov @Premier, 18, scouted in a festival called Benicassim, Spain.
Aleksandr @Nevs, 20, Estonia.
My favorite words in my mother language are kretín, gordost, chest' and drakon (buster, pride, honor, dragon)
All clothing by American Apparel
Tuesday July 16th, Carven AW14 campaign by Viviane Sassen
Carven AW14 campaign by Viviane Sassen
Friday July 11th, Sara and Lo by Christoph Wohlfahrt
Our special editorial series "Basic French lessons" comes to an end with a story by Christoph Wohlfahrt and Benjamin Brouillet and it's called "Ni Thelma ... ni Louise..."
Dress - Corbier Agostini, necklace - Bliss Lau
LEFT:Lo wears a bra - Yasmine Eslami, skirt - Victoria Tomas, Sara wears a t-shirt & bomber jacket - ASSK
RIGHT: shirt - Shaun Samson, skirt - Y/Project
LEFT: Lo wears a top&glove - Y/Project, Sara wears a dress - Mimi's Beer
RIGHT: top & leggings - Manish Arora, jeans - Y/Project
bomber jacket - ASSK, white top - Corbier Agostini, necklace & purse - Zana Bayne, skirt - VETEMENTS, shoes - VSP
LEFT: sweatshirt - Assk, skirt - Isabel Benato
RIGHT: top - Y/Project
LEFT: cap - Mimi's Beer, dress - Maison Kitsune, shoes - A.P.C
RIGHT: leather jacket & skirt - Anne Sofie Madsen
LEFT: cap - Mimi's Beer, dress - Maison Kitsune
RIGHT: Sara wears a sweatshirt - ASSK, Lo wears a bomber jacket and top - Y/Project
LEFT: sweatshirt - ASSK
RIGHT: top - Mimi's Beer, skirt - Y/Project
All clothing by Mimi's Beer
LEFT: coat - ASSK, knitwear - Maison Kitsune, necklace - Zana Bayne, shoes - APC
RIGHT: dress - Y/Project
coat - Victoria Tomas, necklace - Zana Bayne, top&skirt - Mimi's Beer
Photography - Christoph Wohlfahrt
Styling - Benjamin Brouillet
Hair - Shuko Sumida @ Walter Schupfer Management
Make Up - Ai Cho
Models - Sara Steiner @Marilyn Paris and Lo Verplancke @Women Paris
Tuesday July 8th, Vive Paris! Sonia by Sonia Rykiel film
Vive Paris! Sonia by Sonia Rykiel film starring Gaelle Mancina and Philippine Chaumont.
All the clothing from Sonia by Sonia Rykiel AW14 Pre-Collection.
Friday July 4th, Madi by Benjamin Mallek
LEFT: top - JW Anderson
RIGHT: dress - JW Anderson, shoes - Dorateymur
LEFT: coat - Ann-Sofie Back
RIGHT: sweater - JW Anderson, trousers - Yirantian, shoes - Kult Domini
LEFT: top - Yirantian
RIGHT: dress - Damir Doma, shoes - Dorateymur
LEFT: top - Yirantian, trousers - JH. Zane, shoes - Dorateymur
RIGHT: top - JW Anderson, shorts - Rachel Comey
LEFT: jacket&skirt - Ann-Sofie Back, shoes - Dorateymur
RIGHT: top - Rejina Pyo, skirt - JW Anderson
Photography - Benjamin Mallek
Stylist - Kama Krystel
Make Up - Gillian Campbell
Hair - Jonahid Miah using Aveda
Model - Madi Fogg @Premier
Tuesday July 1st, Louis Vuitton AW14 campaign
Tuesday June 24th, Lanvin Resort 15
Lanvin Resort 15, photographed by Stephane Gallois
Tuesday June 17th, Tove Jansson exhibition in Ateneum, Finland
If in Helsinki this summer, make sure not to miss out Tove Jansson's exhibition at Ateneum which has been organised to mark the 100th anniversary of her birth. Much more than a creator of Moomin stories and characters, Jansson was also an author and political caricaturist.
Tove Jansson, Mysterious Landscape, ca 1930.
Friday June 13th, Rachael Robinson by Julien Bernard
Our special June editorial series "Basic French lessons" continues with a story by Julien Bernard and Danielle Van Camp and it's called "Faire du Shopping" (Go Shopping).
Wool coat with star detail and muff - Jean Charles de Castelbajac, cow-hide platform boots - Corbier Agostini
LEFT: Rib knit cropped top - Y/Project, grey peplum trousers with contrast side panels - MBMJ, long fur coat - Corbier Agostini
RIGHT: Knit top - Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, printed wool skirt - ACNE, textured wool coat - Marella and cow-hide platform boots - Corbier Agostini
LEFT: Multi-coloured embroidered knit top and sand-wash silk skirt - Jean Charles de Castelbajac, wool knit sweater tied around waist - Sportmax, hooded wool coat - Vionnet
RIGHT: Wool knit turtle-neck sweater - ‘S MaxMara, wool tweed and leather trim jacket, wool shorts and leather zip front gloves - ACNE, vintage hat stylist’s own
LEFT: Shirt with contrast detail - MBMJ, cropped mottled wool jumper - Sportmax, textured wool mini-skirt - Sportmax, wool coat - Rochas and cow-hide platform boots - Corbier Agostini
RIGHT: Wool knit sweater with button detail - Sportmax, striped rib knit belt and wool trench with quilted lining - Sonia by Sonia Rykiel
LEFT: Nylon with knit back cardigan - Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, asymmetric wool skirt with split - Jean Charles de Castelbajac, oversized wool poncho and cow-hide platform boots - Corbier Agostini
RIGHT: Striped silk satin trousers - Ulyana Sergeenko, wool coat with piping detail and quilted front - Sonia by Sonia Rykiel
Tuesday June 10th, Moschino AW14 campaign
Moschino AW14 campaign by Steven Meisel
Friday June 6th, Proenza Schouler swimwear line
Proenza Schouler swimwear line is set to begin delivery in October.
Tuesday June 3rd, Jordan Gamard by Vito Fernicola
Vito Fernicola's shoot is the first editorial from Grit’s series “Basic French lessons” in June.
For our readers, it’s probably no secret that we love Dries Van Noten, Issey Miyake and Bless. That's why our first lesson in French is "J'aime (I love)"
Vest and jumpsuit - Bless
Shirt, bomber jacket and jeans - Dries Van Noten
LEFT: poncho - Issey Miyake Men
RIGHT: shirt - Romain Brau, bomber jacket and trousers - Dries Van Noten
Vest - Diesel
LEFT&RIGHT: shirt, coat and jeans - Dries Van Noten
LEFT: coat - Issey Miyake Men
RIGHT: vest & trousers - Bless
Photography - Vito Fernicola
Styling - Lu Philippe Guilmette
Model - Jordan Gamard @Elite Paris
Friday May 30th, Ashish x Topshop
Ashish x Topshop Capsule Collection available now at Topshop
Tuesday May 27th, Grit beauty - Felicity by Phil Dunlop
RIGHT: coat - Dolce&Gabbana
LEFT: top - Rick Owens
RIGHT: bra - Eres
LEFT: jacket - Stella McCartney
Photography - Phil Dunlop
Styling - Camilla Raven
Make Up - Sofia Bermudez
Hair - Sarah Jo Palmer
Photographic Assistant - Alec McLeish
Photographic Assistant - Klaus Blumenrath
Casting - Simon Lewis @Cast and Elect
Model - Felicity Peel @Elite
Tuesday May 20th, Louis Vuitton Resort 2015
Friday May 9th, Miu Miu Eyewear Campaign Film SS14
Tuesday May 6th, a sneak preview of Winter Vanderbink's story for Summer 14 issue "Bliss"
Photography - Winter Vandenbrink
Styling - Isabella Kavanagh
Model: Robbie McKinnon @Supa
Saturday May 3rd, Lucio Fontana
LEFT: Concetto Spaziale Attese, 1965
RIGHT: Concetto Spaziale, 1962
Lucio Fontana exhibition at Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris until August Sun, August 24.
Tuesday April 29th, Henri Matisse - The Cut Outs
Henri Matisse - The Cut Outs exhibition at Tate Modern, until 7 September 2014
Saturday April 26th, Bliss
LEFT: Kesse Donkor@ Premier, photography by Niclas Heikkinen
RIGHT: Photography by Jonas Lindstroem, styling by Paul Maximilian Schlosser
Melina Gesto @Viva London photography by Niclas Heikkinen
Wednesday April 16th, Happy Easter!
Faberge Big Egg Hunt in NY,
LEFT: Kate Moss Easter Egg Sculpture by Bruce Weber
RIGHT: Easter Egg by Faig Ahmed
Friday April 11th, Anders Haal Q+A
Grit's series of Q+A with up and coming designers (scroll down to read about 22/4 by Stephanie Hahn and Lina Michal) continues with the womenswear designer hailing from Sweden - Anders Haal. Anders debut collection SS14 was inspired by surfers and hackers, interestingly enough we were first introduced to Ander's world through tumblr.
Where did you study?
I went to study at Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm and before that I studied art and lived in Berlin for a while.
Your debut collection (SS14) was inspired by surfers and hackers. Why hackers and why combining surfers and hackers?
It was an idea of a collage. Hacking is more of a coding mind set or an attitude. A healthy approach to life. With the classic surfer dude thing, I thought was a nice way to work with something active and not so precious. In that sense this project is about lifestyle. I was really tired and frustrated of what was going on in the market, since everything has been extremely streamlined for a long time.
Who’s the Haal woman?
Comfortable. Carefree. Unlimited, but still very specific sometimes. I guess I design for people who understand they are free to be who ever they please. Its not my job to fit them into my categories.
You used to work for Ann-Sofie Back Atelje for several years. What made you go solo?
I knew I wanted to do it when I couldn't find anyone I wanted to work for, only with a few exceptions. but actually the idea of doing my own was there from the beginning. As of this summer, I've had the opportunity to work full time on the project and now I have set up a studio.
In addition to designing clothes, you also design eyewear. Any particular reason why eyewear and not shoes or bags?
For me the products together create a story, and you fill in the gaps yourself. The way I put together a leather trenchcoat with a peace sign towel and a pair of aviators. Sunnies are always fun because you work with a face, an identity. Not so much, just a product. The collection and range will grow each season and will eventually tell new stories.
What’s next for Haal?
Well, my ideas and visions about the project are developing all the time, but my ambition is to grow and develop new product groups. And I want to continue working with people I like and that feel relevant for HAAL. Next season will be a bigger step in the same direction.
Tuesday April 8th, Winter Vandenbrink's special Grit project "Go See Tuesday"
The series "Go See Tuesday" features 5 new faces from different London agencies shot by the Grit regular Photographer Winter Vandenbrink, scroll down to see which boys popped in to see Winter.
Tim Sprague @Nevs
Josh Wicks @Models1
Diego Moncada @Established
Jake Love @Select
Oliver Cookson @AMCK
Maria Papadopoulou/Mac Pro
visit Grit's tumblr page to see black and white portraits of Diego, Jake, Josh, Oliver and Tim
Monday April 7th, Preview of Winter Vandenbrink's special Grit project "Go See Tuesday"
Oliver Cookson @AMCK models
Maria Papadopoulou/Mac Pro
the series features 5 models from different London agencies, the whole series will be up online tomorrow
Friday April 1st, Martin Creed exhibition at Hayward Gallery
Martin Creed exhibition at Hayward Gallery, now extended, until May 5
Tuesday April 1st, Hedonism and Minimale Animale SS14"Point Dume" lookbook
LEFT: the Angel gone bad, Madison Lee (Demi Moore) in Charlie's Angels
RIGHT: Holiday Magazine relaunches, the Creative Director Franck Durand has numbered his first issue 373, picking up where Holiday left off in 1977. The theme for the the issue 373 is "69" an allusion of freedom of that year.
"Jellyfish House" designed by Wiel Arets in Marbella.
Minimale Animale SS14 lookbook, photographed by Henrik Purienne
Friday March 28th, Behind the Scenes of Grit Summer 14 issue shoot
Grit Summer 14 issue will be out soon, here's a behind-the-scenes pic from one of our shoots.
Tuesday March 25th, Celine Store in London
Celine Store opened its doors in London on Friday
Wednesday March 19th, Leigh Ledare exhibition
LEFT: Leigh Ledare "Pretend You're Actually Alive" series, 2008
RIGHT: Leigh Ledare "Double Blind" series, 2010
The NY based artist Leigh Ledare is probably best known from his series "Pretend You're Actually Alive", a series dealing with his mother's sexuality. The other series of work seen here is from the series called "Double Blind". In this series Mr Ledare photographed his ex-wife in an isolated cabin, then asking her new husband to do the same.
Leigh Ledare exhibition at Mitchell-Innes & Nash Gallery, 534 W 26th Street, Chelsea NY, Fri 21 March- Sat April 26
Friday March 14th, Under the Skin
Under the Skin, directed by Jonathan Glazer
Tuesday March 11th, Hannah Hoch at Whitechapel Gallery
Hannah Hoch (1889 - 1978) was a member of Berlin's Dada movement in 1920's. Known for her collages made from fashion magazines and illustrated journals, her work made humorous and moving commentary on society. Hoch questioned conventional concepts of relationships, beauty and the making of art. Her collages explore the concept of the "New Woman" in Germany following the World War I.
LEFT: Hannah Hoch "Ohne Titel"
RIGHT: Hannah Hoch "Ohne Titel", 1930
Hannah Hoch "Sea Serpent", 1937
LEFT: Hannah Hoch "The Beautiful Bottom", 1959
RIGHT: Hannah Hoch "The Bride", 1933, from the series "From an Ethnographic Museum". In this series Hoch combines images of female bodies with traditional masks and objects, questioning traditional gender and racial stereotypes.
Hannah Hoch until 23 March at Whitechapel Gallery
Friday March 7th, Misha Hart by Vicki King
top - Co-te, coat - Beyond Retro
dress - Kristina Egle, scarf - Emma J Shipley
LEFT: top - Martina Spetlova, skirt - American Apparel, socks - This Is Uniform
RIGHT: top and skirt - Martina Spetlova
LEFT: dress - Sophie Tohl, top - This Is Uniform
RIGHT: turtle neck - Avelon, top - Kirsty Ward, jacket - Mehle, skirt - This Is Uniform, hat - Borsalino
dress - Hexa by Kuho, shorts - This Is Uniform, scarf - Beyond Retro, socks - Falke
LEFT: turtle neck - Avelon, shorts - Hexa by Kuho, socks - This Is Uniform, trainers - stylists own
RIGHT: top - Hexa by Kuho, tennis dress - Mehle, polo shirt - Le Coq Sportif
Photography: Vicki King
Stylist: Francesca Pinna
Set Design: Libbi King
Make up: Michelle Dacillo using NARS cosmetics
Hair: Satomi Suzuki
Model: Misha Hart @ Viva London
Assistance: Rowan Southern & Dionne Walker
Friday March 7th, AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 BEAUTY ROUND UP
As the autumn/winter 2014 shows come to an end, we’ve seen the likes of Cara and Sam Rollinson clock approximately 276 miles on the catwalk, seen enough fashion vines to last, erm, until September and have mentally curated our autumn wardrobe. But attention turned to beauty, so lets talk the stand out beauty trends to come out of the catwalk…
Long gone are the days of sleek hair, Brazilian blow-dry who? Embrace your inner wild child and lets your locks run free, but remember, you gotta keep it chic though. Look to J.W. Anderson for inspiration where flyways were both graceful and tough. Remember that hair tuck that everybody had a go at? Well, it’s back, sort of. At Iceberg hair was tucked insouciantly behind ears, think cool-skater-girl chic. Marni’s girl took to the catwalk with locks of hair a few drops beyond dewy - almost drenched - but the most perfect incarnation of the post-showery look. Extremists rejoice.
LEFT: JW Anderson AW14, RIGHT: Iceberg AW14
The classic saviour of the beauty world, the red lip proved it’s timelessness. Always a stand out show in the beauty stakes, Prada and Pat McGrath certainly didn’t disappoint. Some girls came out with light and powdery versions whilst others came out with full on deep red hues. Try a matte cherry lip stain a la AF Vandervorst or look to MaxMara for inspiration where lips were drenched with full-bodied raspberry tones.
LEFT: Prada, RIGHT: AF Vandervorst
Love your liner
It seems the beauty worlds fascination with eyeliner is going to hold on just that little bit longer, we’ve seen every incarnation imaginable; the ubiquitous feline flick gets a welcome update with precise blue sweeps across lids at Kenzo, the rounded off flick at Maxime Simoens, worn-in smudged lines at Topshop and the new way to wear your liner at Anthony Vaccarello with a graphic thin strips above and below the eye set off with extended red flick - attitude optional.
LEFT: Anthony Vaccarello RIGHT: Kenzo
Eschewing full-on ‘looks’, virginal beauty was all over the catwalks. From just-bitten lips with hints of pink a la Vanessa Bruno, nude but glossy skin at Isabel Marant and hyper-polished accents at Balmain, virginal beauty was beautifully displayed.
Vanessa Bruno AW14
by Sunil Makan
Follow Sunil on Twitter: @sunileo86
Thursday March 6th, Highlights of Paris Fashion Week, part 2
Miu Miu AW14
Louis Vuitton AW14
Haider Ackermann AW14
Wednesday March 5th, Richard Hamilton at Tate Modern
Richard Hamilton for the cover of Living Arts Magazine
Richard Hamilton exhibition at Tate Modern, 13 February - 26 May
Friday February 28th, Highlights of Paris Fashion Week
Maison Martin Margiela AW14
Wednesday February 26th, Toni Halonen for Kenzo
Toni Halonen for Kenzo
Tuesday February 25th, Tessa Edwards AW14
Gold and crystals were a central theme of Tessa's AW14 collection "As Seen On Screen".
Pre show pictures - Olivia Rose
Catwalk photos - Jay Kirton
Images courtesy of PR
Love crystals? Check out Grit's Kyanite issue #12. (Kyanite is a crystal used in crystal healing).
Tuesday February 25th, LA love - Kerry James Marshall
Our LA Love Series continues with the Artist Kerry James Marshall. Kerry James Marshall was born in Birmingham, Alabama and grew up in South Central Los Angeles and now lives in Chicago.
LEFT: Blue Water Silver Moon (Mermaid), 1991
RIGHT: Untitled (Painter), 2010
Nude (Spotlight), 2009
Tuesday February 25th, Highlights of Milan Fashion Week Part 2
Marni AW14, LEFT: prints by German artist Magnus Plessen
Missoni AW14; sportswear inspired collection and 70's colour palette.
Monday February 24th, Raf Simons x Fred Perry SS14 collection
Photo courtesy of PR
Friday February 21st, MFW highlights
Tuesday February 18th, LFW highlights continued
Grit cover girls Helena Severin @Viva and Georgia Taylor @IMG at Christopher Kane show
Christopher Kane AW14
Thomas Tait AW14
Simone Rocha AW14
Sunday February 16th, LFW highlights from Friday and Saturday
Drew Henry, Central Saint Martins
Lucas Nascimento AW14
Phoebe English AW14
Friday February 14th, NYFW part 2
Marc Jacobs AW14
Calvin Klein AW14, like The Row and Altuzarra (see Tuesday blogpost), Calvin Klein's AW14 collection was crafty and featured some beautiful knitted pieces.
Thursday February 13th, Q+A with Stephanie Hahn from 22/4
We caught up with the designer Stephanie Hahn behind the label 22/4 before the upcoming Paris Fashion Week. The name of this Dusseldorf based label derives from the mathematical equation 2+2=4 which is an indication of 22/4’s high quality standards.
You design for both men and women, but your label isn’t unisex. In one of your interviews you have mentioned you work on the masculine and feminine common identity. What do you think is the common identity?
First of all thank you for not calling my brand “unisex”! For me and my team it’s the worst and most untrue term related to our work and to the identity and philosophy of 22/4. We don’t work with a unisex pattern system. Our menswear is based on the traditional menswear pattern systems and the same for the women’s - it’s based on the traditional women’s wear pattern systems.
We liberalize the idea of genders in fashion by creating a common identity - a connection of the men’s and the women’s collection. The common identity of 22/4 arises out of the fact that I don’t separate the men’s and women’s collection during the development process. I see and feel them as one collection. For me it’s all part of the same story and based on the same inspiration, the same mood and idea of shapes and silhouettes. I even like to use the same materials for certain men’s and women’s pieces – especially when it comes to the signature pieces I have to admit.
22/4 SS14 men
22/4 SS14 women
You are based in Dusseldorf. How is the fashion industry in Dusseldorf?
To be honest I don’t really know the industry in Düsseldorf. I was always interested in Paris and focused on its industry. I think I probably know better the music scene here and parts of the art scene than the fashion industry in Düsseldorf.
Despite of being based in Germany, you have chosen to show in Paris from all the other fashion weeks. As a relatively new designer how do you try to set yourself apart from the more established labels in Paris?
I try my very best not to be too commercial and allow myself and the brand to grow with every new project and season. I strongly believe in the process of development.
Here in Britain, there’s been discussion about fashion design education and how difficult it is to find great pattern cutters these days since everyone wants to make their own label/become a star designer. What are your thoughts on this as a German designer?
Well, it’s generally no disadvantage to know the techniques of your profession. I benefit a lot from the fact that I know how to do a cut already while sketching my ideas. And I personally really appreciate discussing technical details with my team during the development process of a piece. We work on ideas and new techniques together and see how we can always stretch the technical boundaries a bit more. I just think that we all should take care that we keep in mind that fashion is beside of anything else based on a technical structure and system. It’s not that bad to know the system before you start to break it into pieces.
For the AW14 collection you used faux fur for the first time. Any other materials you’re keen on experimenting with?
Let’s see. Choosing the fabrics is a very intuitive and emotional process so I never really know what might attract me next. But I generally like to experiment with fabrics and to put them into another often unexpected context.
LEFT: 22/4 AW14 men, RIGHT: 22/4 AW14 women
Recently we’ve been asking the designers we interview which one would they be happier to share with people - sketchbook or diary. Why?
Except with my team and the people I choose to work with, I don’t feel a need to share my sketchbook with anyone. And I don’t keep a diary - for me my collections are my diaries and them I do share with everyone interested in 22/4.
What can we expect from 22/4 in the future? Any special projects coming up?
More of 22/4, for me every collection is already another special project as it’s never just about garments.
22/4 SS14 campaign photographed by Stefan Milev
Tuesday February 11th, Cléa Vincent - Retiens mon désir
This track by Cléa Vincent is an instant moodlifter.
Tuesday February 11th, Artisanal bliss in NYFW
We wanted to pay homage to all the amazing artisanal expertise we've seen in NYFW over the past few days. Crafty and modern luxury hand in hand.
LEFT: woven tapestry at Altuzarra AW14
RIGHT: hand knit cashmere skirts The Row AW14
Sunday February 9th, Kenzo SS14 campaign film by TOILETPAPER
Photography Pierpaolo Ferrari
Animation Thomas Traum
Friday February 7th, 3.1 Phillip Lim SS14 campaign film
Thursday February 6th, Spring 14 Utility Clothing
Like the title of our "Spring 14" issue "Metier" suggest; sporty reinterpreted utility clothing is hot this spring. We selected some of the best dungaree/overall looks from SS14 catwalks.
LEFT: Vanessa Bruno SS14, RIGHT: Rag&Bone SS14
LEFT: Givenchy SS14, RIGHT: Topshop Unique SS14
Tuesday February 4th, Q+A with Lina Michal
Congratulations on winning the Muuse x Vogue Talents award. Your collection “Heathen Hearts” takes an inspiration from Swedish ethnic fashion ... What things in particular inspired you in the way people used to dress in the old days in Sweden?
It’s not so much inspired by historic costume as it is inspired by our previous way of life, the culture of having a close spiritual relationship to nature. Less than 100 years ago it was still common knowledge in Sweden that magic beings guarded the trees, waters, meadows - that nature had soul. We have such a long history of animism and that inspired me to give the collection a organic, spontaneous feel to it.
You are currently interning at Opening Ceremony what is your normal day like?
No day is like the other, there is so much going on. On top of my internship I’m also working on a collection under my own name together with Muuse, so the days sure are long. I’m going to Denmark for fittings in the end of the month and it’ll be out in time for the SS15 season, it’s very exciting.
Here at Grit we love Swedish designers/labels such as Acne, Ann-Sofie Back and Sandra Backlund and yet we think there should be more Swedish designers who are recognised worldwide. What do you think is the biggest obstacles for Swedish designers to make it big?
Well, like with everything else it’s a matter of money. Sweden is a very small market and there’s not enough room for a lot of companies to take part in it. It becomes essential to get international stores to stock your designs, maybe we’re not very good at selling ourselves?
If you were not a designer what would you be doing?
I’d probably be a gardener.
Which one would you be less likely to share with other people your diary or sketchbook? Why?
My diary for sure, haha! I think it’s important to be able to share your sketchbook, to have the guts to show people your work before it is finished and perfected. There is so much you can learn from letting go of things, sharing even the stuff that is still just a thought in your head or a sketch on paper. It helps you develop and see new angles to your work that you never would have noticed out on your own.
Since you’re currently in NY - Mermaid parade or Chinese Lunar New Year parade? Why?
I was actually out of town for both of these events. Get back to me next year and I’ll have an answer for you! But celebration, regardless of reason, is always nice.
Friday January 31st, Hunter Boots SS14 campaign
Hunter Boots SS14 campaign shot by Viviane Sassen
Thursday January 30th, Interview with the design duo Marques Almeida in 2011
Tuesday 26th July 2011 Q+A with Marques Almeida
The Portuguese duo Marques Almeida's graduate collection was one of our favourites graduate collections this year. Despite of being recent graduates, the future is looking bright for them - they are showing their SS12 collection in Fashion East in September.
As seen in our Wild Palms Pre AW11 issue, Marques Almeida's reworked denim pieces from their graduate collection are worn by the amazing Melodie Monrose (Premier) and styled by Larissa de Filippo. We interviewed Marta, the other half behind the label to find out a bit more how they work as a duo and what inspires them in denim.
Who is Marques Almeida girl?
The cool girl around the corner that feels identified with this
attitude we talk about through our clothes.
How do you work as a duo? How do you differ from each other?
We work very closely together and we differ a lot from each other and
that's the good part. We gradually found out, after all these years
working side by side, our individual strengths and skills. We work on
the creative part completely together in a very instinctive way but
then there are specifics stages where one of us is more active and
Your graduate collection was a denim collection. Why did you choose
to work on denim?
The denim came from our research, centered around the early to mid
nineties street syle references that we then reworked. Denim was the
iconic reference that we were faced with over and over and we wanted
to focus on it as part of this "youth code". Also, it's interesting and
exciting to be working with a material with so much possibilities in
itself and uncommon in the high end market.
You've been chosen as one of the designers to show in the Fashion
East in September which is an amazing stepping stone for any new designer.
What are your thoughts on this?
We are beyond excited,really.We are very aware of the opportunity and
we're so glad we get a chance to keep doing what we do with the
amazing support of the Fashion East team!
How does the Portuguese fashion differ from English? Would you say
there's any Portuguese references in your work?
It is very different and we're glad we got both training in Portugal
and the UK because it made us develop totally different skills.It's
hard to analyse its differences because the context is too different.
We wouldn't say there are any Portuguese aesthethic references in our
work. Although we believe that what we do is obviously strongly
connected to what we are and that comes so much from growing and
studying in a country as Portugal and it's big connection to the
textile industry, as it comes from the amazing skills and creative
development we were able to achieve by moving to London and having the
training we had here.
What are you listening in the studio right now?
A 90's playlist.
Thursday January 30th, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Pre Fall 14